One of the iconic landmarks that I first saw when I got here in Riyadh in 2008 was this tall striped tower that fans out upward looking like a standing top or a mushroom with its head upside down from afar. We always see it when we go to Batha. Almost everyone I asked about it says it's a "water tower." Ermn, oookay. So is it filled with water? Does it supply the whole of Riyadh? Is it true that there's a restaurant on top? Can we go up there?
Five years and 2 months after, I already have the concrete answers. First, it's not filled with water. Second, it doesn't supply the whole of Riyadh with water. It was built to supply water to the former Murabba Palace founded by King Abdul Aziz in 1936. This palace compound is now home to the King Abdul Aziz Historical Centre comprising of a remodeled mosque, the National Library, the Memorial Hall, the National Museum of Saudi Arabia, and the King Abdul Aziz Foundation for Research and Archives. (We featured the National Museum of Saudi Arabia in the blog in 2009. Read it here and here.) To the south of this compound is the Riyadh Water Tower which was also remodeled. A small theme park was built around it. Below this tower structure lies four floors of water. So yes, it is indeed a water tower. But we're talking about its basement and not its stalk. There's no restaurant on top. Maybe before but none anymore. Finally, yes, you can go up.
The tower itself is inside the Al Watan Park, which is a bit retro-looking for us. It's as if time stood still in this theme park: the rides were a bit old and looks rickety, the displays were worn out, the staff looks bored and tired, and the food looks stale and there were very few choices (if you consider three stalls of Corn in a Cup choices then urmn, you haven't left your house for a long time). Maybe we went on a humdrum night and there weren't many people but still. It felt like we were in a trance and were trapped in an old toy kingdom. Well if you think about it, maybe they're just keeping up with the theme of the whole complex... you know, history. Hehe. Jk. Anyway, there's a 5 riyals entrance fee. You can enter via the entrance near the KAHC or the main entrance with the old tower in front.
Tickets to the old water tower, priced at SR 10 per person can be bought at the entrance gate. We proceeded to the tower entrance and we were greeted by a staff who got our ticket stubs and told emphasized that we need to pick the 16th floor button on the elevator. So we were expecting that maybe, there were other buttons to other floors... only to be greeted by a button which says 0 for ground floor and uh, 16, which is meant for the 16th floor. Just two choices and yet, we were specifically told to choose the button which says 16. Uhhh, of course!!! Hahaha! Oh, and he also warned us not to throw anything from above; eyeing our bottles of mineral water suspiciously. Seriously, why would we do that?! And there are people who do that?! Tsk.
Upon landing on the the 16th floor, we were greeted by emptiness. There was no restaurant. Maybe remnants of it but it was long gone. So here's what we saw:
Why, hello Riyadh!!! |
The swiveling doors leading to the outside |
Here lies the restaurant that is no longer here. :P |
Chairs to savor the moment |
The old water tower viewing deck has lost its glory, especially with the rising of the new and more modern buildings like the Faisaliah Tower and the Kingdom Tower but we found the old water tower charming in its old, nostalgic feel. It's nearer the views, with iron gates impending your view, but if you can see past that, you'll get glimpses of the traditional Riyadh.
Batha area |
Riyadh, the other side |
The busy street leading to King Fahd Road |
KAHC onwards |
Faisaliah and Kingdom in the distance |
The KAHC below; Al Murabba district |
We saw Batha, the beloved expat's haunt. We saw the modern towers in the distance; so near yet so far. We saw the KAHC grounds below. We saw the the glittering lights of places on the outskirts of Riyadh. We saw Salam Park, or rather, the tree outlines and shadows covering it, and the Dirah area.
Here are some panoramic shots:
We also saw a lovely couple, the only two persons with us on the top, sitting in an old carpet and sharing a meal. Awww, sweet! Yes, it is a simple dating place (for married couples only, please). It doesn't have the crowd and the craziness of the city center. More importantly, it has the silence that lets you share more meaningful conversations. Best to go there during the early days of winter though. It's quite warm now and the sandstorm has just spread its dust here.
Al Watan Park is open from Thursdays to Saturdays during Ramadan but for a limited time only.
Al Watan Park is open from Thursdays to Saturdays during Ramadan but for a limited time only.
Combine your visit with a tour of the National Museum of Saudi Arabia. Chances are, you'll be the only persons in the huuuge place. You can take photos and yes, you can also frighten yourself and your friends ala A Night at the Museum. Check schedules here.
Yallah, go! ;) ~ Sundrenched
Al Watan Park
King Faisal Road, Al Futah,
Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Contact Form
Map
Red marks the spot. |
Directions: From Lulu Hypermarket in Riyadh Avenue Mall, go straight towards the Deira area. You'll see the museum grounds on the right. Go straight past the museum grounds and the stop light. The water tower is on your right.
5 had something to say:
Nice post. The 3 shots of the tower from below are REALLY nice!
I was born in this city. It was THE water tower. Growing up we didn't have many icons in the city. One was the TV tower, the Khalidia Towers and the other was the water tower.
This post takes me back. You did a nice job of painting a picture of parks as they were back then. 10-15 years ago it was a good park if it had green grass and a fountain which worked all year round. Otherwise it was just sand. A few creaky rides, swings but that didn't matter. A park was a place you would go with you family and friends and sit on the grass long into the night. Sipping tea, coffee, kebabs or even grilling. It was communal, it was simple.
From your post it seems like walking into something that is a mere wisp of its former glory. But to me, I can see it just the way it once was
Hi Arafat, what lovely comments! I'm glad you enjoyed the post on this tower. I've always been curious about it. I'm glad it brought you to those years. I specifically love your last line :)
Hey what about the TV tower..Did you guys got to go there as well?
@Anonymous 2:44PM: We're not sure if it's open to the public since it's inside the Ministry of Information premises. So no, we haven't been there.
Funnily enough, the "water tower" a copy of the water tower in the minor Swedish city of Örebro, although about 1/3 larger and different i colour. The Örebro version was built in 1958 and found favour with prins Feisal on a visit to Sweden.The Örebro version is still used as a water tower and still contains a restaurant. Thanks for a nice post! /Mike
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